The Tongariro Northern Circuit is a 44.9km loop hiking track in the Central North Island of New Zealand. It’s one of New Zealand’s Great Walks and is a popular track for being alongside Mount Doom from The Lord of the Rings. The track also has a section that overlaps with the Tongariro Crossing, which is 19.4km in length and is a day hike.
We completed the loop in three days however, there are three huts along the track, so you have the option to take an extra day if needed. I would recommend this for beginner hikers. There are difficult sections on this track that can drop your speed. The track can be completed in either direction; we walked in the order of the map below (clockwise). This is the direction most people complete it in, but we did see a few people walking in the opposite direction.
Whakapapa Village to Mangatepopo Hut
The terrain between Whakapapa Village and the Mangatepopo hut is relatively flat, and because we had good conditions on the day, it only took us 2 hours despite the 4-hour time estimate. There are a few small stream crossings and some uneven track, so I can see how this time could increase a lot in bad weather.
Roughly the first half of the track between Mangatepopo Hut and Oturere Hut can get quite busy. This is because this section is shared with the day hikers on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. It’s also the most challenging day with a huge climb. Starting the day early is helpful to beat the crowds. Give yourself enough time for breaks, and of course, to appreciate the views.
The climb before the Emerald Lakes!
The section starts with flat boardwalk before reaching the beginning of the climb. This first incline section is called the devil’s staircase and has 370 steps—getting straight into it! The stairs are well-maintained and have small sections where you can stop and catch your breath.
Once you get past the devil’s staircase, you’re rewarded by walking right through a flat crater. You get to rest those legs and marvel at your surroundings – it really does feel otherworldly.
After walking across the crater, there’s another steep climb, which is quite rocky and without a maintained path. Be careful with your footing up this part! Once you reach the top, the views are incredible, you can really feel the scale of it all.
Hiking beside the Emerald Lakes
Of course, the emerald lakes are also spectacular. Walking past them on the way down feels very surreal! The descent here is pretty unstable, though – you’re essentially walking down on loose volcanic rock, which you sink into with every step. Footwear with ankle support is a must!
After getting down the steep part, it’s a pretty flat walk until the next hut. With the amount of incline and steep decline, I wished we’d booked the Waihohonu hut when we arrived, I was well ready for a nap. We didn’t, though, so we stopped for an afternoon tea & water break and carried on. Most of the next section was flat/steady decline, so it wasn’t too bad. However, just before the hut, there’s a small forest section with a steep hill to climb, which felt a bit mean after such a long day.
The last section of the track had some pretty steady inclines, nothing too major, but you can definitely feel it on tired legs. All in all, this hike is awesome and I’d love to go back to do it again. The terrain really makes you feel like you’re on another planet at times, and those emerald lakes are gorgeous! Let me know if you’ve done this hike and what your favourite part was!
If you’re planning to book your hike, check out all the official information on the doc website here!